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Lowdown on fashion’s bottom line

Sao Paulo Fashion Week

The his and hers ultra-low cut denim look by Zoomp, shown at the Sao Paulo Fashion Week this week.

How low can jeans go? Forget hipsters, the waistline’s plunging southward in South America.

The models above were showing the lowdown on his and her styles by Zoomp at Sao Paulo Fashion Week, in Brazil - Latin America’s most important fashion event that runs until Monday.

Meanwhile, there’s a trunkload of looks men can choose from for the northern summer of 2006, judging by the Milan catwalks this week.

From beach boy to ranch dude to yacht club gent, the style emerging during the current week of preview showings is all about vacation and the good life.

To underline the free-spirited style of his summer Emporio line, Giorgio Armani had tousle-haired models in spiffy, sandy-beige linen suits riding down the catwalk on shiny black bicycles.

“It’s all about freedom,” was Armani’s take on the much applauded collection, shown in the theatre of his ultramodern Milan headquarters.

In keeping with this theme, lace ties replace the constriction of buttons on the new shortened jackets, and plaited cords take over from conservative belts to hold up the softly cut trouser.

For a fellow in search of the exotic, as well as the weekend vacationer relaxing by the pool, the designer offered see-through tunic shirts paired with harem pants.

Armani opts for a colonial colour palette to keep his customer cool, ranging from ice white, to sandy beige, earth brown and ink blue. Black is relegated to evening wear, which like the rest of the collection leaves a lot of room for movement, opting for a simple black suit to replace the more formal tuxedo.

In the first days of the five-day menswear showings which end with Armani’s signature collection, other top Italian designers embraced the same upbeat holiday mood.

The Dolce and Gabbana duo presented a fun-loving second line D&G collection in a recreated park complete with lush lawn and flowers under a tent in the garden of their downtown Milan headquarters.

The boyish-looking models sported T-shirts decorated with the cartoon canary Tweety Bird and low-slung jeans which revealed floral printed boxer shorts underneath. The same shorts were also worn over the jeans, matched with a printed shirt unbuttoned to the waist. The grand finale of the show was a parade of bare-chested models in an infinite variety of bathing trunks.

Things were much more grown-up at Gucci where the mood was all about posh boat life.

Fine-featured models with slicked back hairstyles walked the catwalk wearing double-breasted blazers, and pristine white linen slacks. Designer John Ray paired this traditional yacht club look with striped linen espadrille footwear, a sign that despite its retro feel, the show was about contemporary style.

The footwear said a lot about where the new Gucci designer, into his third collection after Tom Ford’s stormy departure, is taking the double-G label.

In general, the collection harked back to the 1960 heydays of the company, when no self-respecting yachtsman would show up at the club without well-worn Gucci loafers on his feet.

Although there were few vintage loafers, the crocodile slippers Ray paired with long satin bathrobes worn over silk swimming briefs, showed that the designer is into good old-fashioned luxury. These same shoes sparkled under the epitome of high-life evening wear - an aristocratic white tie and tails outfit.

Down on the DSquared Ranch a whole other fashion story unfolded. Usually these rough and ready guys only need a sturdy pair of jeans, a colourful kerchief and a trustworthy pair of boots to enjoy life.

The show, which recreated a barn complete with hay, horses and country music, was full of cowboy gear from checked shirts, to fringed leather jackets to sturdy working aprons.

But the Canadian designing twins Dean and Dan Caten dressed these guys up and took them to town, pairing their everyday clothes with “Sunday best” jackets cut close to the body the way the country boys like them.

Miuccia Prada sent a chill - a much appreciated sensation in a Milan staggering through a gruelling heatwave - by colouring in her usually minimalist silhouette.

Preppie models sported tailored coral pink or aqua green pants coupled with shirts printed with multicoloured hearts and stars. These same upbeat figures showed up in sneakers and ties, as well as charms on bracelets and necklaces, the latest “got to have” items of the popular Prada accessory line.

“I want people to know my heart is in this business,” the designer said after the show.

Sydney Morning Herald - Fashion

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